No foster dog arrives perfectly behaved. That is not a criticism — it is just reality. Dogs coming out of shelters have often had inconsistent lives, stressful environments, and little or no formal training. Some have never lived in a house before. Some have been through things that left marks on their behavior.
The good news is that most common behavior problems in foster dogs are manageable, especially once you understand what is driving them. You do not need to be a professional trainer. You need patience, consistency, and a basic understanding of what works.
Here are the five behavior problems fosters encounter most often, and what to do about each one.
Most foster dog behavior problems are not personality traits. They are habits formed in the absence of structure. A little consistency goes a long way.
Problem No. 1 – Jumping Up on People
Jumping is almost universal in dogs who have not been taught otherwise. It is how dogs greet each other, and it is how they have learned to get attention from humans. The problem is that it worked. Every time someone laughed, reached down, or even pushed the dog away, the dog learned that jumping gets a reaction.
The fix is removing the reward entirely. When your foster dog jumps, turn your back, cross your arms, and give zero attention — no eye contact, no talking, no pushing them down. The moment all four paws hit the floor, immediately give them calm praise or a treat. You are not punishing the jumping. You are teaching that jumping gets nothing and four paws on the floor gets everything.
What helps
- Be completely consistent — every single person in the home needs to do the same thing, every time
- Ask visitors to turn away too, or warn them before they come in
- Practice greetings repeatedly so the dog gets lots of chances to get it right
- Reward a “sit” at the door as an alternative behavior — give them something to do instead
Problem No. 2 – House Training Accidents
Many shelter dogs have never been house trained. Others were trained in a previous home but lose those habits when they move somewhere new. Either way, accidents inside are extremely common in the first week or two of fostering and should be expected rather than treated as a failure.
The most effective approach is to go back to basics as if you are training a puppy. Take the dog outside frequently, especially after meals, naps, play, and first thing in the morning. When they go outside, praise them genuinely and immediately. Do not wait until you are back inside. The praise needs to happen the moment they finish so they connect the two things.
When accidents happen inside, clean them up with an enzymatic cleaner (regular cleaners do not fully eliminate the scent, which draws the dog back to the same spot). Do not punish after the fact. A dog cannot connect punishment to something they did five minutes ago, and it only increases anxiety, which makes accidents more likely.
What helps
- Supervise closely indoors — keep the dog in the same room as you or use a leash attached to you
- Use a crate when you cannot supervise — most dogs will not soil their sleeping space
- Take them out on a predictable schedule and track when accidents happen to spot patterns
- Celebrate outdoor success every single time, especially early on
Problem No. 3 – Pulling on the Leash
Leash pulling is one of the most frustrating behaviors for fosters because it makes walks unpleasant, which then makes it harder to give the dog the exercise and mental stimulation they need. The dog pulls because pulling has always worked — the person followed, so the dog learned to go faster by pulling harder.
The fix is to stop making pulling effective. When the leash goes taut, stop walking entirely. Wait. The moment the dog looks back or gives you any slack in the leash, mark it with a “yes” and move forward again. You will feel like you are barely getting anywhere at first. That is okay. The dog is learning that the walk only happens when the leash is loose.
A front-clip harness can help a lot in the meantime by reducing the mechanical advantage a dog gets when pulling. It is not a training solution on its own, but it makes walks more manageable while the dog is learning.
What helps
- Practice in a low-distraction area before tackling busy sidewalks or parks
- Bring high-value treats on walks and reward the dog for checking in with you
- Change direction often so the dog has to pay attention to where you are going
- Keep early walks short and successful rather than long and frustrating
Problem No. 4 – Resource Guarding
Resource guarding means a dog is protective over something they value — food, a toy, a spot on the couch, even a person. It can look like stiffening, a hard stare, a growl, or a snap when someone approaches. It can feel alarming, especially if it comes out of nowhere.
Resource guarding is a normal dog behavior rooted in survival instincts. It does not mean the dog is aggressive or dangerous. But it does need to be taken seriously and handled carefully, especially in homes with children.
The worst thing you can do is punish the growl. Growling is communication — the dog is telling you they are uncomfortable. Removing that warning signal does not remove the discomfort. Instead, work on building a positive association with approach. Toss a high-value treat toward the dog when you walk near their bowl. Walk past without taking anything. Over time the dog learns that a person coming near their resources predicts good things, not a threat.
What helps
- Feed the dog in a quiet space away from foot traffic initially
- Practice “trade” — offer something better in exchange for whatever they have, so they learn giving things up is worth it
- Never reach into the bowl while they are eating in the early weeks
- Contact your rescue coordinator if guarding behavior feels unsafe — some cases benefit from a professional trainer
Problem No. 5 – Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety is one of the harder behavior problems to deal with because it happens when you are not there. Signs include barking or howling when left alone, destructive behavior near exits (doors, windows), house training regression only when alone, or a dog who cannot settle even briefly without being right next to you.
Some level of velcro behavior and restlessness when left alone is normal in newly placed dogs. True separation anxiety is more intense and persistent. The root of it is panic — the dog genuinely believes something terrible is happening when their person leaves.
Treatment takes time and involves gradually teaching the dog that departures are safe. Start with very short absences — stepping outside for 30 seconds and coming back in calmly. Build up slowly. Keep your arrivals and departures low-key so you are not spiking the dog’s emotions around those moments. A stuffed frozen Kong or puzzle feeder can help occupy the dog as you leave.
What helps
- Practice short departures many times a day, gradually increasing duration
- Avoid long absences while the dog is still adjusting — if possible, work up to it slowly
- A crate can help some dogs feel safer; for others it increases panic — learn which your dog is
- Through a Dog’s Ear music (available on Spotify) is specifically designed to calm anxious dogs and works for many
- Talk to your rescue coordinator if the anxiety is severe — some dogs benefit from short-term anti-anxiety support from a vet
One Thing That Applies to All of These
Every one of these behavior problems improves faster with structure and consistency than with correction and punishment. Foster dogs are often coming from chaos. What they need most is to understand what the rules are and to learn that you will enforce them the same way every time.
That predictability is itself calming. A dog who knows what to expect is a dog who can start to relax. And a dog who is relaxed is a dog who can learn.
You do not need to fix everything before your foster dog gets adopted. You just need to make enough progress that they can be successful in their next home. Every bit of work you put in travels with them.
Ready to Make a Difference for a Dog in Need?
Foster dogs in Memphis need patient, caring homes right now. Apply through Memphis Animal Services — it is free, flexible, and one of the most impactful things you can do. Apply to foster now!
